• From Dudh shukto to Hemkonikar payesh: Tagore’s Thakurbari’s recipes brought alive again in 3-day festival
    Indian Express | 7 May 2025
  • (Written by Sharadiya Mitra)

    Long before restaurant menus and fusion trends, Bengal’s culinary identity was crafted in homes like that of Rabindranath Tagore.

    Dishes such as uchchhe bori diye dudh shukto, bhaja muger dal pora, hemkonikar payesh, and kochi pathar jhol once graced the poet’s table and reflected a kitchen steeped in refinement and tradition.

    Now, in an effort to revive these lost flavours, the West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation (WBTDCL) is bringing back this rich gastronomic legacy through a three-day food festival titled “Banglar Shabekiyana Thakurbarir Ranna (Bengal traditional cuisine of Tagore’s family)” to be held from May 9 to 11.

    This festival, curated as a tribute to Bengal’s timeless food heritage, will present four elaborate thalis each day.

    The vegetarian option, lovingly named “Chokher Bali,” will serve up classics like fulko luchi, narkel kuchi diye cholar daal, bori diye ucchey dudh shukto, kachalonka diye posto bata, bhaja muger daal pora, Thakurbarir chanar pulao, echorer kofta, kacha aamer chatni, papor, and end with sweets like shorbhaja, Hemkonikar payesh, and mishti paan.

    Alongside this are three non-vegetarian thalis, each representing a unique flavour palette.

    Like vegetarian thalis, non-vegitarian thalis are also named after Tagore’s novels. “Ghare Baire” celebrates chicken preparations, including the legendary Goyalondo steamer curry paired with basanti pulao and traditional accompaniments.

    “Punoscho” is a seafood lover’s delight with sorshey pabda and the rich Thakurbarir chingrir malaikari or doi katla, all thoughtfully paired with nostalgic sides.

    “Sesher Kobita,” the mutton thali, features kochi pathar jhol, a delicate, flavourful curry of tender goat meat and potatoes, highlighting the depth of Bengal’s slow-cooked traditions.

    The menu offers more than just meals—it tells stories.

    “The menus were selected from the tradition of Thakurbari. Thakurbari means not only Rabindranath Tagore. It’s a long history from Dwarakanath Tagore to Devendranath Tagore, Rabindranath Tagore and Rathindranath Tagore. We tried to capture that tradition in food culture. Thakurbari has jamindari in Shilaidaha which was in East Bengal, but they also used to be interested in the food culture of Kolkata as well. On the other hand, the majority of wives of Thakurbari were from Jashore, which also belongs to East Bengal. So, there is a mixture of culture in food and we tried to explain that in this festival,” said a senior official of the state Tourism department.

    Dudh Shuktani, for instance, is a mildly spiced medley of milk, bitter gourd, ridge gourd, sweet potato, and mustard seeds, infused with the distinctive aroma of panch phoron.

    Thakurbarir aloo dum, cooked in ghee with a hint of hing and ginger paste, offers warmth and subtlety in every bite.

    Bhaja motor dal pora, made from roasted yellow split peas blended with mustard oil, green chillies, and onions, is shaped into crisp fritters that bring texture and heart to the plate.

    Each dish is rooted in the cultural fabric of Bengal, offering not just taste but also memory.

    What makes the experience even more inviting is its accessibility.

    Priced between Rs. 525 and Rs. 730, these generously portioned thalis are designed to be enjoyed by all.

    The festival will run in four locations simultaneously—Bolpur (Shantiniketan), Bankura (Bishnupur), Barrackpore (Mongoldhara), and Bidhannagar (Udayachal)—with dining slots open from 12 pm to 3 pm and again from 7.30 pm to 10.30 pm.

    A senior official from WBTDCL noted that “this initiative serves a dual purpose, it honours the culinary traditions of Jorasanko Thakurbari while also showcasing the talent and potential of the tourism department’s own culinary wing.”

    He said, “To deepen the immersive feel of the event, all staff will be dressed in traditional Bengali attire—dhoti and panjabi—bringing back the sights and spirit of a bygone era.”

    For anyone seeking authenticity, history, and the comforting embrace of true Bengali cuisine, this festival promises a rare opportunity to travel back in time—one plate at a time.

    (Sharadiya Mitra is an intern with The Indian Express, Kolkata)

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