No Padma Hilsa this year: Kolkata chooses Myanmar and Gujarat fish; taste, price, and supply drive shift
Times of India | 28 July 2025
KOLKATA: In a notable shift in consumer preference, hilsa enthusiasts in Kolkata have begun embracing fish arriving from Myanmar’s Irrawaddy and Gujarat’s Narmada, previously deemed inferior to the varieties sourced from Bangladesh’s Padma or Rupnarayan in Kolaghat.
Over the past five days, hilsa caught during migration from the Arabian Sea to the Narmada estuary in Gujarat have been arriving in Kolkata in truckloads. Approximately five trucks from Gujarat, carrying 60 tonnes of hilsa, have been reaching Bengal daily.
Most larger fish in the consignment, those with eggs, retailed for Rs 900-1,000 per kg, while those without eggs were selling for Rs 1,200-1,400 per kg.
Prior to the arrival of the fresh catch, the markets were inundated with frozen hilsa from Myanmar. These fish, retailing at Rs 1,400-Rs 1,600 per kg, have been moved to cold storage, making way for the fresh harvest from Gujarat.“There are currently 625 tonnes of Myanmar hilsa stored in Bengal’s cold storage facilities,” said Syed Anwar Maqsood, secretary of How-rah Wholesale Fish Market.
Local hilsa, netted by fishermen in Diamond Harbour and Digha, are also available. These small-sized fish, weighing around 450-500 grams, are priced at Rs 600-Rs 800 per kg, while those over 1kg cost up to Rs 1,800 per kg.
Traditionally, hilsa from Padma arrives in Kolkata ahead of Durga Puja. Although more expensive, priced at Rs 1,800-Rs 2,200 per kg, Bangladeshi hilsa is eagerly purchased by ilish-loving Bengali households. Hilsa from the Arabian Sea is believed to be less flavourful than those caught in the Bay of Bengal.
However, with serious doubts over the arrival of Bangladeshi hilsa this year due to current political tensions between India and Bangladesh, Kolkatans who once avoided hilsa from other regions are now queuing for them.“The deterioration in India-Bangladesh relations has cast a shadow over hilsa imports. There is no point waiting for Padma hilsa. I purchased a 1.5kg Myanmar hilsa two weeks ago and loved it. This morning, I have come to buy a hilsa from Gujarat,” said Sajal Mitra, a businessman near Triangular Park who shops at Gariahat market.
Amar Das, a fish trader at Lake Market, said: “People in Kolkata usually prefer hilsa from Diamond Harbour and buy them at a premium. But in the past, when Padma hilsa arrives, the focus shifts and excitement infuses the market. This time, however, there are no such indications. Instead, there are indications that Bangladesh may not send any hilsa consignment at all.” Rabindranath Barman from the Bangladesh Fishermen Association added, “Recently, the ministry of commerce announced preparations to export hilsa to foreign countries. Whether it will be sent to India is uncertain. Markets have been established in the US, Dubai, Qatar, Kuwait, Iraq, and several other countries. Adequate supply is necessary for sending to India.”Kazi Mannan, a Bangladeshi fish exporter, noted, “Last year, relations were strained after India gave asylum to Sheikh Hasina, who fled the country following the uprising. Yet the country exported hilsa to Bengal. However, the situation has since deteriorated further. It is also true that there’s not much hilsa in the river this time. The fish being caught in the net are small, weighing 1 to 1.3 kg. The wholesale price is 2,200-Rs 2,500 taka per kg, which is too expensive for the market in India.”Despite these challenges, Maqsood, who coordinates the import of hilsa from Bangladesh annually, remains hopeful. “Bangladesh cannot do without India. India cannot do without Bangladesh. If there is fish, I believe they will send Padma hilsa this time as well. We are sending letters in advance. Both countries will maintain harmony for their interests,” he remarked, adding that his meetings with the Bangladesh deputy high commissioner in Kolkata and the high commissioner in Delhi had been positive. “Bangladesh chief advisor Mohammad Younus can use the hilsa as a diplomatic card to reset relations,” he felt.
However, West Bengal fisheries minister Biplab Roy Chowdhury expressed limited optimism. “Traders in Bangladesh want to export hilsa to Bengal but are scared and don’t want to get involved in controversies. Efforts are being made to communicate. Let’s see what happens in the end.”