Written by Jigisha Seal
The restaurant sector in Kolkata and West Bengal is facing an existential crisis as a shortage of commercial Liquefied Petroleum Gas (LPG) in the wake of the West Asia crisis forces iconic eateries to prune menus, hike prices, or face total shutdown.
Some businesses are considering a return to traditional stoves to maintain operations, while others have raised food prices to offset rising costs. Amid the ongoing crisis, some consumers suspect that the shortage of LPG cylinders may have been a deliberate attempt to encourage black-market sales.
Debaditya Chaudhury, director of Chowman, Oudh 1590, and Chapter 2, warned that kitchens are nearing a breaking point. “If the situation escalates, we may have to restrict menus to manage kitchen operations efficiently,” he said.
While they are beginning to feel pressure from inconsistent commercial gas supply, their commitment to operations across the country will remain unchanged. “We believe that innovation and adaptability will help us navigate this challenge,” he said.
The disruption followed the recent Ministry of Petroleum and Natural Gas directive prioritising domestic LPG supplies over commercial gas amid geopolitical tensions in West Asia, which has led to the effective closure of the Strait of Hormuz. The waterway is vital for India’s energy security as it handles approximately 60 per cent of India’s total LPG imports and 90 per cent of those specifically sourced from the Gulf region.
Restaurateurs say that if the supply disruption continues, it could significantly affect food preparation and service during peak hours.
“LPG is essential for maintaining consistency and speed in large-scale cooking. We hope the issue is resolved soon so that restaurants can continue to serve customers without disruption,” said Ishtiaque Ahmad, the managing partner of Shiraz Golden Restaurant.
Arsalan, famous for its biryani, has reverted to traditional methods to survive. Mozammal Haque, manager at Arsalan (Park Circus), said they are using wood-burning stoves to meet the daily requirement of 70 cylinders across 12 outlets. “We are forced to buy cylinders at inflated prices from areas like Dankuni just to keep the fires burning,” Haque added.
Rana Nandy, the owner of Girish Chandra Dey and Nakur Chandra Nandy, urged the government to manage the situation effectively.
“We are currently managing with the limited fuel supply by reducing the number of items for sale. It is definitely difficult for us, as not only we but also our workers and their families depend on this. All we can do is hope that the situation improves,” he said.
Speaking to the Indian Express, Sudesh Poddar, president of the Hotel and Restaurant Association of Eastern India (HRAEI), said that normal restaurants and food services will collapse if the government doesn’t resolve this issue at the earliest.
“We rely heavily on LPG for our daily services; induction cookers or other alternatives cannot produce the same results, as many dishes cannot be prepared in the same way.”
Faizal, who has owned Haji Saheb in Behala for nearly three decades, blames the government for mishandling the situation. “Work has nearly come to a halt; we only have enough supplies to operate for one more day. After that, we will have no choice but to close the shop. The shortage is affecting not just commercial businesses but also domestic use. If this shortage continues, it could drive people to despair and potentially lead to tragic outcomes,” he said.
The crisis has also sparked allegations of corruption. “The distributors and dealers are brokers of the government. They are taking advantage of the situation and selling the LPG cylinders on the black market. This disruption is severely affecting both domestic routines and personal livelihoods,” added Faizal.
Jigisha Seal in an intern with The Indian Express.